The first mentioning of the Wachau was in a Carolingian document in 830 A.D. While the tradition of wine-growing here actually dates back to the time when the Romans had settled in the Wachau, the first golden age of wine actually blossomed under Carolingians rule. In the Middle Ages, Wachau wine was already known far beyond the borders of Austria. There are not many landscapes in Europe that have such clearly defined borders as the Wachau: the Danube valley between Melk and Krems. The Wachau´s history was formed here, along 33 kilometers of river, wine and cultural landscape between the majestic Benedictine monasteries of Melk and Göttweig.
Numerous contrasts abound in this confined space – a unique wine-growing area of rare beauty – which is differentiated from all other vine culture lands in Europe by its land formations and subtle microclimate. The Pannonian climate zone extends like a tongue from the east into the Wachau. From the heights of the Dunkelsteiner forest south of the Danube river, and the Waldviertel in the north, cool and wet air masses that are rich in oxygen flow down through little, forested stone valleys known as the Wachauer Gräben. This creates a continuous circulation of air, which strongly influences the aromas forming in the grapes and – together with the meagre primary rock soils – characterises the pressed wine. Along with the climate, the soils are the “second” mystery of the Wachau. Weathered primary rock soils (gneiss, silicate and rock brown earth) enrich the mountain terraces; lower down, they are covered partly with islands of loess that evolve into light, sandy soils. The vines thrive on the terraces that reach up to around 450 meters above sea level – this is 250 meters above the Danube river. With their extremely modest fruit yield per vine, the mountain sites add to the fame of Wachau wines all over the world, because they bring together what is so difficult to reach anywhere in the world: special charm; taste intensity, and clear grape aromas.
Restricting the production of wine to the legally-defined growing area only, and the commitment without compromise to quality, origin and purity, are the association´s main principles. The name Vinea Wachau Nobilis Districtus actually dates back to Leuthold I von Kuenring (1243-1313). The core of his possessions was comprised of what is today the wine-growing area of Wachau. The wines of the Wachau are inimitable and distinctly marked by their origin. In 1983, the Vinea Wachau producers’ association pledged to uphold this character by voluntarily relinquishing their right to buy in grapes or wine from other regions, or cultivate vineyards elsewhere. This has led to a region which is still characterised by small wineries and vineyard holdings. Special attention is paid to the maintenance of the dry stone wall terraces. It is these walls that make the extreme viticulture of the Wachau possible, and they are a determining feature of the Wachau Cultural Landscape.
For the producers of the Wachau, making wine is an artisanal craft. They all agree on the importance of striving to reflect the character of their vineyards and vintages as faithfully as possible.
In 1984 they began to create the trademarks Steinfeder, Federspiel and Smaragd to cement this message. By using these names, the members commit to a wine style which reflects regional typicity: dry white wine, made without the addition of sugar, or detectable wood influence.
Steinfeder; (a type of feather grass indigenous to the region) is the lightest style with max alcohol levels at 11.5%. The style is lively and refreshing and delicate.
Federspiel; (a type of bird used as prey in falconry) must have an alcohol level between 11.5%-12.5% essentially making the wines a bit richer on the palate. These are very precise styles that pair well with food.
Smaragd; (pronounced Sma-rocked and refers to the emerald green lizards found on terraces) is the highest quality category and the most powerful. Alcohols here must meet a minimum of 12.5% and are the most age worthy.
Various factors are expressed in the character of every Wachau wine: topography, soil and weather are fused with each winemaker’s dedication and willingness to take a risk.
Technological advancements of the past decades have eased the work of the vintner dramatically. Nevertheless, much in the Wachau remains the way it has always been. Where the vineyards are steepest and work the most toilsome, there are very few opportunities for mechanisation. The rough terrain of steep sites requires disproportionately more labour than vineyards on the plain. However, even in the places where machines could be used, the winemakers still carry out much of the work by hand.
All Vinea winemakers are obliged to hand harvest. Picking machines are deliberately not used, even in vineyards where they could theoretically be deployed.
The use of vineyard names to describe the wines has a long tradition in the Wachau, where many of the best- known names can be traced back to the 13th century. These names do not just reflect the origin of the grapes, they also describe the character of the wines. The name also often hints at what the vineyard is like, who used to own it, or some local historical event. Over 100 different vineyard sites pay tribute to the complexity arising from the variations in geology, soil, climate and topography. The personal understanding and experience of the winemakers are the final ingredients in reflecting the Wachau’s terroir.
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