Brunello di Montalcino is a red DOCG Italian wine produced in the vineyards surrounding the town of Montalcino, in the province of Siena, in the Tuscan wine region. Brunello, a diminutive of bruno (lit. ’brown’), is the name that was given locally to what was believed to be an individual grape variety grown in Montalcino.
In 1980, Brunello di Montalcino was among the four wines awarded the first Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) designation. Today it is one of Italy’s best-known and most expensive wines.
History;
One of the first records of “Brunello” was of a red wine from the Montalcino area in the early 14th century.
By the 1960s there were 11 producers making Brunello, and in 1968 the region was granted Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) status. By 1970 the number of producers had more than doubled to 25, and by 1980 there were 53 producers. In 1980, the Montalcino region was the first Italian wine region to be awarded Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) designation. In 2020, there were nearly 200 producers of Brunello di Montalcino, mostly small farmers and family estates, together producing nearly 330,000 cases a year.
Brunello vines in Montalcino;
Montalcino has one of the warmest and driest climates in Tuscany with the grapes in the area ripening up to a week earlier than in nearby Montepulciano. It is the most arid Tuscan DOCG, receiving an average annual rainfall of only 700 mm, in contrast to the Chianti region which receives an average of 900 mm. As with all of the Northern Hemisphere, the north-facing slopes receive fewer hours of sunlight and are generally cooler than the south-facing slopes. Thus, vineyards planted on the north-facing slopes ripen more slowly and tend to produce wines that are racier and more aromatic. Vineyards on the southern and western slopes receive more intense exposure to sunlight and more maritime winds which produces wines with more power and complexity. The top producers in the area have vineyards on both slopes, and make use of a blend of both styles.
The town of Montalcino is a small medieval village located in the province of Siena. The wine district is centered to the northeast of the village in densely wooded and hilly terrain. Monte Amiata, the highest peak in Southern Tuscany, provides a sheltering influence from the southeast and tempers the region’s climate and rainfall. Compared to the nearly 41,000 acres (17,000 ha) of planted land in Chianti, Montalcino is a relatively small wine region with around 3,000 acres (1,200 ha) planted. Vineyards in Montalcino are planted in varied soils, including limestone, clay, schist, volcanic soil and a crumbly marl known as galestro, at altitudes ranging from 149 m to 500 m. This diversity in terroir contributes to the vast range in quality and potential complexity of Brunello di Montalcino.
Due to the significant differences of the terroir in Montalcino, some experts argue that subzones should be indicated on the labels as this would greatly help consumers understand the differences among Brunello’s from Montalcino’s greatly varied territory. There is a general consensus that there are eight subzones in the DOCG area: Montalcino North, Montalcino South, Castelnuovo dell’Abate, Camigliano, Tavernelle, Bosco, Torrenieri, Sant’Angelo.
Winemaking and regulations;
Brunello di Montalcino is made 100% from Sangiovese. Traditionally, the wine goes through an extended maceration period, where colour, tannins and flavour are extracted from the skins. Following fermentation, the wine is aged in oak. Traditionally, the wines are aged 3 years or more in large Slovenian oak casks that impart little oak flavour and generally produce more austere wines. Some winemakers will use small French barrique which impart a more pronounced vanilla oak flavour. There is a middle ground where the wine is aged in small barrique for a short time and then spends a longer sojourn in the traditional large Slovenian oak casks.
Most producers will separate their production between Brunello and Brunello Riserva bottling. For Brunello, the aging requirement is minimum 4 years, including 2 years in barrel and 4 months in bottle (ERD = January 1, V+5); for Brunello Riserva, the aging requirement is minimum 5 years, including 2 years in barrel and 6 months in bottle (ERD = January 1, V+6).
Grapes and wines;
The Sangiovese grape is the most widely planted grape in the Montalcino region and is the only permitted grape in the Brunello di Montalcino DOCG. The particular Sangiovese clones grown in the Montalcino region has been developed in adaption to that area’s specific terroir during many generations. The altitude and climate of the Montalcino region is ensuring that the Sangiovese grapes consistently ripens more than in other areas of Tuscany. These factors contribute to the body, colour, extract and tannins commonly associated with Brunello di Montalcino. In contrast to Chianti, the other famous Sangiovese based wine of Tuscany, Brunello di Montalcino’s have a more fleshy texture with common aromas and flavours of blackberry, black cherry, black raspberry, chocolate, leather and violets.
The high acidity of the Brunello di Montalcino wines allows it to pair well with food, especially grilled meat and game. Brunello di Montalcino are known for their ability to age, with well made examples from exceptional vintages often showcasing development for several decades. Most Brunello’s often need at least a decade before they loose their youthfulness, mature and start to harmonize their flavours.
Other wines;
In addition to Brunello di Montalcino, producers in the Montalcino region can produce wine under Rosso di Montalcino, Sant’Antimo and Moscadello di Montalcino DOCs as well as the generic Indicazione Geografica Tipica designation of Toscana IGT. Moscadello di Montalcino is a sweet white wine made from Muscat. The Sant’Antimo DOC was named for the 9th century abbey built by Charlemagne. In the 1970s, producers in Montalcino were influenced by the success of the “Super Tuscan” style of wine that was gaining international recognition for Chianti producers who deviated from DOC regulations with winemaking techniques such blending Cabernet Sauvignon with Sangiovese. In 1996, Italian authorities approved the Sant’Antimo DOC to allow Montalcino producers to produce DOC designated wines that were not 100% Sangiovese. These wines include blended Bianco and Rosso wines as well as varietally labelled Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc.
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