Nero Di Troia

The Nero di Troia vine is fairly vigorous, with much girth, and it carries large, rather compact, pyramidal (sometimes “winged”) clusters of violet coloured grapes which ripen mid-season. It is adaptable to a variety of soils and does not suffer unduly from the high temperatures of Apulia, although hot winds in summer may cause problems. It was traditionally used as a blending grape, however since the turn of this century it has experienced something of a revival, at least as far as the production of varietal wines is concerned.
Nero di Troia is high in tannin and there is a tendency for berry clusters, especially if the berries are large, to ripen unevenly. Consequently, wines were often considered too tannic, needing years to soften their structure, and they could display herbaceous notes due to unripe berries. Blending was therefore considered the only option.
All this changed, however, when winemakers began to select clonal variations of Nero di Troia that had smaller berries and then restricted the yields. In addition, they ensured that only berries that had fully ripened were harvested, in order to eliminate any potential herbaceous notes and to ensure that the tannins in the wine were ripe and therefore softer. As a result the quality of the fruit improved dramatically. Aging in oak also helped to integrate the tannins and give them a supple quality.
With this careful management Nero di Troia revealed its true varietal characteristics and began to display its potential to make wines of real quality and complexity that can also display a sense of place. Producing these varietal wines is very challenging for the winemaker, but the results can be outstanding. Aromas of violets, red and black fruits with notes of vanilla, star anise, herbs and spice are followed by flavours of raspberry, cherry, plum and blackberry along with cedar, tobacco, leather and dark chocolate, leading to a persistent finish.
The best of these wines, such as those produced by Angiuli Donato can display wonderful balance and complexity at prices that represent exceptional value for money.